Masters of Illusion
Last month, make-up artist Sophia Pafitis wrote about creating the perfect canvas for the face with primer, foundation and concealer. In this article, she looks at contouring your face with bronzer, blush and highlighter. The woman with drive team tried her recommended products and techniques since reading this article and give them a big thumbs-up for making a positive difference.
Great make-up artists are masters of illusion. Knowing how to contour your face with the right products and tools is among the most important techniques in producing the best looking you.
In my last article we explored the secrets to creating the best foundation. If you missed it, click here for the link. Once you have the perfect base, it’s time to add colour to the canvas – this highlights structure and delivers a fresh glow.
1. Bronzer
Let the misconception of bronzers irrelevance be laid to rest – it IS important. Bronzer enables enhanced facial structure, the illusion of chiseled cheekbones and a warm complexion. Mastering these special effects will reward you with the contours your face deserves.
Use your index finger to feel for the hollow of your cheek directly under the bone. Use a fluffy, angled brush to create a blended shadow from your ear along the cheekbone. If your brush is too big, you will have too much surface coverage to create a precise contour. Extend the colour onto the forehead around the hairline where the sun naturally hits – this warms the complexion and can help soften a receding hairline.
Avoid
Bronzers with orange pigment and glitter flecks – they’re unnatural and unflattering.
Top Pick Products
NARS Laguna bronzer is ideal for fair to tan complexions. It is green based to avoid an orange look. For darker complexions, try NARS Casino. Both available at Mecca Cosmetica – $65
Recommended Brushes
MAC #168 large angled contour brush – $65
Bare Minerals angled face brush – $27.95
2. Blush
Cream and liquid blushes are your best friends. They’re dewy, conceal fine lines and lift the complexion. They also help contour the cheekbones. Apply your blush only to the apples of your cheek in an effort to lift your face. You want a healthy flush of colour, so keep it light and blended with light-handed movements. If you use your fingers – dab it on with your middle finger, then blend with your ring and middle finger (the clean finger will pick up any excess blush). I like to use a fluffy haired or synthetic blush brush to apply liquids and creams.
Avoid
Matte finishes and darker-than-natural cheek tones to prevent the apple of the cheek receding.
Top Picks
By Terry Rose de Rose Sheer Liquid blush ($98) OR Stilla Convertible Colour ($40). Both available at Mecca Cosmetica.
Recommended Brushes
Bare Minerals Soft Focus Face Brush – $34.95
Mecca Cosmetica Blush Brush – $50
3. Highlighter
Opposite to a bronzer but equally important, this product highlights and lifts. Apply to the tops of the cheekbone starting from the hairline, blending along the peak of the cheekbone. Only apply highlighter to areas you want to draw attention to. To further enhance your glow, also consider highlighting along your brow bone, the inner corners of the eye and softly touch on your cupids bow for a fuller-looking top lip.
Avoid
Highlighting powders with high shimmer and glitter flecks. The consistency of a powder isn’t as forgiving. Creams leave a smooth, polished look which is more flattering.
Top Picks
MAC Cream Colour Base is responsible for heightened cheekbones across the globe. Try in colours Hush or Pearl – $35
Recommended Brushes
MAC #130 short duo fiber brush – $76
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